On a recent trip to Monterey, CA I discovered one of the best tourist attractions in town, the Monterey Bay Coastal Recreation Trail. Yes, Cannery Row and Fisherman’s Wharf, the Aquarium and the beaches are all worth noting, but the trail takes you by all of these with breathtaking views and smells.
The paved and improved recreational trail traces the former Southern Pacific rail bed spanning 18 miles along the coast from Pacific Grove to the south at Lovers Point to Castroville to the north. That rail line once carried goods and treasure to and from Monterey’s famed Cannery Row.
Staying at the posh and sprawling Monterey Plaza Hotel just east of Cannery Row, the trail was literally steps from the hotel lobby. Heading west from there trail leads through an alley way of sorts behind many of the storefronts and restaurants in a narrow parkway setting well landscaped and full of colorful sights.
The smells wafting from the many eateries along the way were a welcome immersion into the local scene. Don’t drift too far though, auto traffic does need to be carefully watched at the various crossings through the Row.
Soon past the village the trail winds its way past Point Cabrillo and the Hopkins Marine Station, the oldest marine laboratory in the United States, built in 1917. Its compound of historic grounds are full of sights worth stopping for.
Further west the scenery opens up with magnificent and storybook sights of rocky beach outcroppings and crashing waves. Wood beam fencing comes and goes as do pockets of landscaped goodness. It was winter bluster today, but spring time visits offer some of the most amazing flourishes of wildflower color.
The town side of Ocean View Blvd is dotted with yet more storybook scenes of ornately designed and cared for row houses that have oodles of history charm about them. The neighborhood is clearly fitting to this historic town and has been curated well over the years.
Through overgrown clusters of trees you can find many details to stop and photograph aside the natural beauty. A number of walls along the way feature painted renderings of times past and you can also find date stamps in some of the bridge crossings that date a century back.
Nearing the bend just before the terminus at Lover’s Point you’ll find a public beach and tourist services like bike rentals and food. The Lover’s Point Grill serves up a lot of treats that smelled almost good enough to break pace and stop for a while.
At Lover’s Point a park setting awaits with a myriad of spots to stop and take in the grandeur of Montery Bay. A pair of binoculars or a good camera lens can really capture some moments including the occasional whale swimming nearby.
All said and done my well intentioned run to soak in the breezes and sights of Monterey Bay was only 1.5 miles of the 18 miles in full the trail offers. I kept pace well on the out-leg but slowed to a walk on the return to take photos.
The latter trek through Cannery Row also ended with some touristing and taking in some of the tastes of local fare. Bliss. I’ll push a hard 5 mile run, next time. If running or walking isn’t your speed you can also rent an variety of bicycles including eBikes.
Smoker of fine tires, eater of natural foods, connoisseur of aromatic leathers, pusher of limits.